Riverlands 4 Wheel Drive Club of NSW (inc)
Trip Reports

Cape York 2003

The big trip for 2003 was decided in previous meetings.

Most of the group left in the week 3-8 August, each vehicle making their own way to Cairns, where everyone would meet.

Sunday 10th August

Jim and Christine, Rudi, Anneke and Erwin arrived at the Lake Placid caravan Park were Ann and John had already found their place to stay overnight with their caravan. Simon and James found a place in a caravan park nearby. We were all to meet up the next day.

Monday 11th August

Robert’s Birthday! And no, we won’t mention his age.

After a good sleep, everyone went their own separate ways to prepare for the big trip, go shopping, and last checks on the vehicles.

Ann received a phone call from Simon that sadly his Father in Manilla is very ill and he is going home to be with him. James has to take the car back to Sydney, so sadly they couldn’t join us on the trip.

At about 5.00 pm the rest of the group arrived. Ann, Rob, Samuel, Sara, and Matthew, Kika and David.

At 9.00pm we had a little meeting and agreed that we leave appr. 9.00 am the following morning.

Tuesday 12th August

At 9.15 am everyone was ready. Our first stop was Port Douglas, we enjoyed a beautiful view at the lookout. Next, we went to Mossman. David, who unfortunately had a crack in the window, went to look for someone to fix it, but never found one. The rest of us had a look around and did some last minute shopping. After some lunch we followed the road to Daintree.

Because some problems with the radio’s, we lost each other. Some went to the village of Daintree, others went onto the Ferry over the Daintree River.

The whole area was beautiful, with many beaches and nature walks. It would definitely be worthwhile to go back one day and spent some more time in this area.

At 4.30 pm Rudi, Anneke and Erwin arrived first at the Lions Den to stop for a drink and to wait for the others. Jim and Christine arrived next, but didn’t stop and went on to Cooktown to find a spot for an overnight stay. Because it was late afternoon, Rudi, Anneke and Erwin decided to set up camp. When the rest of the group arrived and had a drink, they also decided to head to Cooktown, so David could get up early morning and set out on another mission to fix his window.

Wednesday 13th August

We all met in Cooktown where we discovered the spot were Captain Cook landed, and also learned a little about the history of Cooktown. Jim and Christine, travelling with their trailer, left at 9.00 am for Musgrave, our second overnight stay.

The road through Lakefield National Park was beautiful forcing us to stop regularly and enjoy the views, the anthills and the lagoons. Lunch was held at the old Laura Homestead. The weather so far had been fantastic, we forgot it was still winter. The cold was left at home, and they could keep it!

At about 4.30 pm we arrived at the Musgrave station campsite. Jim and Christine had already set up camp and welcomed us by opening the gate and showing us were we could set up. For the people who never travelled in the outback, it was a surprise to see the dot on the map is not a town. Musgrave is just a roadhouse, were you can get fuel, eat, drink and set up camp.

Thursday 14th August


Christine’s Birthday, and we all went to their campsite where the children sang Happy Birthday. Christine was well surprised with the presents we lavished upon her.

At 9.00 am we left Musgrave for our first stop at Coen, a nice little country town. We saw the sign on top of the pub, and were left wondering what was happening there. The sign? It read: The Sexchange Hotel. We left soon after. I think the boys were scared.

At lunch we stopped at the Archer River. The kids had some time to play around in the almost dry river. At the Archer River Roadhouse some of us had the famous Archerburger for lunch, and we have to say it was worth the money

So far so good and no trouble with the car’s, yet. Except John, who lost one of his antennas.

At about 3.30 pm we arrived in Weipa, were Christine and Jim had already set up camp. When everyone else set up camp and the washing was done, we went to the local Bowling Club to have something to eat. That became an adventure on it’s own. After ordering our meals, it took ages before the only staff member available had cooked the meals (we were not the only clients there). In the meantime, Erwin lit the candles on the table and gave one to Christine for her Birthday. We enjoyed a drink while waiting for the meals. Every time we heard another number come up, we leapt from our chairs, with big expectations to receive our meal. The meals arrived after waiting patiently, with thousands of apologies from the lady cook. After all we had our stomachs filled again. Whoever is going to Weipa again, order you meal in the afternoon, or cook it yourself!

And what did John do that day? He lost another antenna, and Jim had to change a tyre.

Back at the campsite, the sky was filled with fruit bats and stars.

We were all tired and went to bed at about 10.00 pm.

Friday 15th August

Slowly everyone woke up, David, Jim and Samuel went fishing but didn’t catch much. Everyone went their own way in the morning. At 2.00 pm a bus trip was booked to the famous Bauxite mines, Ann V. and Anneke stayed ‘home’ to do some washing, write some postcards and have a nice relaxing afternoon.

At 5.00 pm the bus came back, and it appeared all had enjoyed the trip.

Some went to the beach to see the sun disappearing into the sea, and Erwin started a campfire. After diner was cooked and eaten, we went to bed; tomorrow would be an early start.

Saturday 16th August

After the camp was packed away, the group went shopping, and most of us had to fill the tanks again.

We left Weipa at about 9.15 am, travelling through Batavia Downs before stopping at the Wenlock River at about 11.30 am. The kids and some adults had fun playing in the river. For some of the die-hard off-roaders it was a disappointment that there was a bridge over the river. For others it was a relief that we didn’t have to go through the river. We all had a quick look at Moreton station, an old telegraph station, but there was not much to see. On our way David lost his side step from his car, leaving it along the side of the road as a donation to the telegraph road, together with many other car parts we discovered along side of the roads. For Lunch we stopped at the Dulhunty River were Jim thought it was smart to put his head between the car and the trailer, and as result split his head open. With the help of several first aid kits, we fixed the problem and agreed that Jim’s brain was still intact.

At 3.30 we arrived at the famous Gunshot creek crossing. Everyone who had checked the Internet before leaving had expected the worst, but it was not so bad. Of course, we didn’t take the most difficult route, under protest from some people who were thirsting a bit more action. At 5.15 pm we arrived at our next camping spot: Elliot Falls. After setting up camp most of the group went for a swim. Some people forgot that when you want to swim, you need your swimmers. So they jumped in, in their undies. What a sight with some of them. Rudi looked marvellous in his nice white undies. Twin falls is a beautiful spot, without those swimmers, that is.

After cooking and eating, some went to bed while others stayed around for an evening drink and idle chatter. It had been a very enjoyable, but very bumpy, drive that day.

Sunday 17th August

After getting up at 7.30 am, breakfast and packing up, most of the group went for another swim at Twin Falls. At 11.30 we all left. It became a day of river crossings! In total we crossed 7, but most of the rivers are very swallow and it was not that difficult. Our aim was to have lunch at the Jardine River. In turns we drove up front. It became Rudi’s turn to check rivers. We arrived at a big pond, so Rudi decided to follow the directions he had learnt: never drive around through the mud, but go straight through the water.Unfortunatly there was a big log in the water, so he became stuck in the middle. With help from Robert he safely arrived on the other side.

But, what David couldn’t do, Rudi finally did. He caught a fish! A fish of about 1 cm long. What a catch!

We arrived safely at the shore of the Jardine River to have lunch. We took a walk and had a look around. Originally, it was possible to cross the river here, but there are many stories going around that it is not possible anymore because the river is too deep. To confirm this, Robert decided to check himself by walking almost to the other side. Knowing there are crocodiles living in every river, we were all waiting for the big snap. But no crocodile was in the mood to eat a nice snack from Sydney.

After some discussions, it was decided to take the ferry over the Jardine, a trip of 28 seconds that made our wallets $88 lighter. But as a bonus, the return was included and the ticket was valid for 12 months. What a bargain.

After another bumpy ride we arrived in Seisia at 5.30 pm, where Jim and Christine already set up camp. The camping ground was full so we had to set up on the other side off the road, on a nice spot between palm trees and on a lot of sand. After the usual routine of setting up camp, Erwin collected firewood and showed us he is the expert at starting fires, what he successful did every night of the rest of the holiday.

Monday 18 August

After the normal routine, we were on our way to the real top of Australia.

First stop was Loyalty beach, where some sharks were playing around. We passed Lockerby, an old homestead and stopped at the only souvenirs shop in the area. Ann H became a little pale when the kids went to see a crocodile. It turned out to be a fake, but looked very real. After another bumpy ride we stopped at an old fuel dump dating back to WW2, amazed that it had survived all those years. We had lunch at another beach before arriving at the Northern tip of Australia. It was still a hard walk and climb to get there, but was well worth it. The required photos were taken, and David tried to let a dream come true and went fishing on the point. He only caught a rock and lost his rod. After climbing rocks and the walk back over the beach, we went to Bamaga and did the shopping.

Tuesday 19 August


Some had a sleep in while John/Ann, Kika/David and Robert/ Samuel went on a fishing trip. Rudi dismantled the car to let it dry, (it was still soaked after being stuck in the pond) while Ann H and Anneke did the washing. In the afternoon, Rudi and Erwin went for a drive to look at some WW2 plane wrecks. The fishing group came back with a huge amount of fish, which we all ate for 3 days. Very healthy and very tasty.

Wednesday 20 August


We all had to get up early, to catch the boat to Thursday Island which left at 8.00 am. After a very enjoyable trip we arrived at Thursday Island in an hour. Following the advice of the fishing trip organiser in Seisia, we didn’t book for the bus tour. Instead, we booked a maxi taxi. What the guy forgot to tell us is that there is only one of those on the island. After 1 ½ hours we started our tour . Ray, a local, was the driver. He showed us around and told us where he played as a young boy, where his grandparents are buried, etc. Ray became David’s friend and promised him to come to Sydney soon and visit them. We had an enjoyable lunch in the Federal Hotel, walked through the shopping centre, and soon it was time again for the boat trip back. The journey back was a little rough, and when we arrived back in Seisia we were all very tired

Thursday 21 August

The previous night, Christine told us that they both decided to go on their way home. The rest of us, except John and Ann, went for a trip. First to Bamaga information centre, where we learnt the local history and that was very interesting, then on to Mutti point. It was a very rough road. On the way we assisted a family that were bogged in sand and didn’t have the right gear with them, so Rudi had to winch him out The road became very sandy and one of us became bogged too! It was Rudi’s second time he needed help. We lunched on a beautiful spot by the river. After some searching, we found a WW2 radar tower (it took us all day to find it), had a walk around, then went back to do some shopping.

Friday 22 August


First we went to Mapoon to find a community house were the locals make and sell paintings. We spent some time with a lovely lady who told us some history about the area. We were all very impressed with the paintings and everyone bought some. We discovered a modified anthill with a drawer and chair attached. Again, we went on a search for crocodiles, but no luck. Then we were on our way to Somerset, an area that in earlier days had a big homestead. We had a look around and went on towards the beach. After admiring the surroundings and seeing the graves of people who lived (And died, obviously) in Somerset, we followed the 4 wheel drive track along the beaches. After we followed Robert over two beaches and no tracks were discovered anymore, we safely arrived back on the main road. In the meantime the rest of the group decided to go ahead and drive back to camp. At night some went to the wharf and watched the tourists and locals fishing.

Saturday 23 August


After a very enjoyable stay in Seisia it was time to pack up again. Everyone needed to go somewhere, we would sleep better without all the noise from screaming birds, horses and dogs who were travelling in the middle of the night through town, noises from unloading of the ships etc. But we will miss the campfires at night so well made by Erwin.

First we did some shopping in Bamaga, and had a look at the plane wreck of a WW2 DC3.

In the meantime, Kika and David received the good news that their house was sold and they could go on planning their trip around Australia

On the other side of the Jardine River, yes we used our return ticket for the ferry, the first major breakdown happened. David’s car had a broken shock absorber, so Robert and David went back to the ferry roadhouse to seek help. When they got back they decided to go on without one. Rudi lost his areal.

We arrived at Fruit Bat falls later than planned, where we all had a late lunch and some of us had a swim. It was then decided to go on towards Captain Billies landing camping ground. What we didn’t know was that we would have more car problems. John lost another areal, and Rudi lost a suspension bolt in the middle of no-where, so couldn’t drive anymore because he almost lost a wheel. Together with John, they walked back but didn’t find the bolt. After a while Robert and David came to assist John, Rudi and Erwin to fix the car. They did so using a bolt from the bullbar. We arrived late in camp, while Ann and Kika started cooking for the whole lot. They did a fantastic job, feeding a hungry and tired bunch of people.

Sunday 24 August

Joining us in the camping ground was a group from the Monthly 4x4 drive magazine, who were on a trip to the Cape. They made photos and videos for the magazine. Hearing all our stories, they took photos of all of us and of the problems with the cars. In a shed full with souvenirs people had left behind, we admired all the stories on all sorts of material. We also left our story behind, written on an old water bottle.

We left at about 10.00 am

Rudi/ Anneke/Erwin were stopped by a huge python in the middle of the road and warned the others. But when they arrived the python had had enough and disappeared in the bushes. We stopped at Bramwell station to have lunch. Then over the Frenchman’s track to Chili beach. It was a beautiful but very bumpy and winding road. We crossed 13 rivers, small and big ones, then arrived at the campsite at 7.30pm.Around the campfire it was decided to stay for 2 nights, so we could see some of the surrounding area.

Monday 25 Agust

Kika and David didn’t wake up very happy, discovering two holes in their matrass. They were able to fix the problem. After breakfast we first went to a little spot : Portland Road. On the way, we met a guy who asked for help with his car. Robert assisted him twice but after the car gave up a third time, gave up and we continued our trip. At Portland Road there are only a few houses and a beach. We had some lunch and followed the road towards Lockhart river. We did some shopping, had lunch on the beach and visited a community centre full with paintings/craft of locals. Back at camp 5.00 pm.

Tuesday 26 August

Anneke’s Birthday, she was surprised with a birthday choir and a present from the whole group.

After usual routine of packing we left 9.40 am. This time we took the bypass road, but what a bumpy ride that became! We stopped at Archer river Roadhouse, were Anneke was presented with a birthday ‘cake’ with a candle, organised by Ann H. After lunch we went on the road again towards Musgrave station, where we had diner, and then our last campfire.

Wednesday 27 August

We left at 9.30 am, aiming for our first stop at the town of Laura, after first taking the usual group photos of Drivers with their dirty cars.

On the way to Laura, John had some problems with his radiator. In Laura everyone assisted to try and solve this problem. In the mean time, Erwin kept the kids busy by keeping them in jail!

After a long drive on corrugated road, all of a sudden we didn’t now what hit us. We were sitting still in the car, no hobbling anymore!

We stopped at Palmers Road House for a snack and a drink and arrived in Cairns at 6.30 pm. Kika and David found a nice spot in town, while the rest stayed in the Lake Placid caravan park again. We met at night in Cairns and enjoyed a nice diner together. We said goodbye to Kika and David

Thursday 28 August

In the morning we said goodbye to Ann/Robert/Samuel/Sara/Matthew, John and Ann. Rudi, Anneke, Erwin stayed for another two days in Cairns.

Thanks to everyone for a very enjoyable holiday. We had our ups and downs but that makes the adventure worthwhile. We all can’t wait for the next one.

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